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T W E N T Y S E C O N D E D I T I O N

T H E B U I L D I N G C O N S E R VAT I O N D I R E C T O R Y 2 0 1 5

1 0 5

3.2

STRUCTURE & FABR I C :

MASONRY

base of a wall outwards. The only remedy is

to remove the concrete and hard-core and

replace it. As concrete floors tend to trap

damp, forcing it into the surrounding walls,

removing the concrete is not such a bad thing.

One option is to replace slabs with breathable

limecrete floors that really work, helping to

reduce damp in wall bases.

Paint and render

Cleaning may be necessary where brick is

heavily dirt encrusted, as it can obscure tell-

tale cracks and other evidence of underlying

problems. It may also be necessary to remove

an impermeable paint. However, all cleaning

methods entail some risk to brick and should

not be undertaken lightly. Nicola Ashurst’s

article ‘Cleaning Brickwork and Terracotta:

Getting it Right’ in

The Building Conservation

Directory 2011

explores the options and is

available online at BuildingConservation.com.

Paint is a common problem; modern

non-breathable paints prevent the external

evaporation of water from walls, driving

the problem inside. When new, many

modern paints will trap moisture in the

wall. As the paint ages and starts to crack

and deteriorate, especially where it has been

heavily overpainted, more water can get in

but evaporation remains inhibited. Solid

walls can become saturated causing serious

internal damp and rot to any timber built into

the wall. Removing the paint and repointing

with a lime mortar will make a huge difference

to this problem and should produce visible

improvements. Often internal walls have

been plastered with an impervious cement

render to help to hide damp, whether rising

or penetrating, so where damp ingress is a

problem all cement surfaces should also be

removed above ground level and lime plaster

re-established. (Masonry at ground level and

below may need to be water-proof to exclude

ground water.) Where redecoration of areas

affected by damp has to be carried out, then

breathable paint, such as Kiem, Beeck and

other mineral-based pigments can be used.

They come in a large range of colours, are more

durable than limewash, and have minimal

effect on evaporation.

A similar problem can be caused by cement

renders. When looking at a rendered wall it

is always worth asking, why has this material

been applied in the first place? Archaeological

evidence would indicate that many historic

buildings that are now bare were once rendered

in lime, whether to help their performance

or for decorative effect, often in imitation of

ashlar. Infill panels on timber framed buildings

should never have cement infill panels as

this encourages the run off of moisture onto

surrounding timber at a greater rate than a

lime or clay surface will allow. In the south of

England many timber framed buildings are

rendered in lime or clay daub, and painted with

limewash. This breathes well and so protects

the underlying material, be it timber or brick.

However, in the Regency period Roman

cement was used over brick in many towns

and cities to create polite, classical facades

in imitation of ashlar, and in seaside areas it

was used to help keep salt spray out. These

were then painted in oil paint. Although more

flexible than later cement renders, cracking

is inevitable, allowing damp ingress and

preventing evaporation from taking place

externally. If an impervious render is part

of the historic character of the building,

regular maintenance is essential to maintain

a water-tight rain skin. In other cases, such

as a render over a timber framed building,

then a breathable solution is essential, such

as a traditional lime render, finished with a

breathable paint.

LEAP OF FAITH

It takes a huge leap of faith to move away from

modern materials and back to old principles

and materials, but in old buildings they really

do work. Modern materials are easy to obtain

and many builders have only ever used sand

and cement for mortars and renders and

know about modern paints and sealants. Old

brick structures, however, only work properly

when traditional materials are used. These

materials might let some moisture in, but

they also let it out again. The synergy between

lime, brick and timber is impressive. Soft

brick, hardwoods and soft mortars have lived

comfortably together for hundreds of years –

happily the proof is all around us.

Recommended Reading

RW Brunskill,

Traditional Buildings of

Britain: An Introduction to Vernacular

Architecture

, Gollancz, London, 1983

A Clifton-Taylor,

The Pattern of English

Buildings

, Faber, London, 1987

English Heritage,

Practical Building

Conservation: Earth, Brick and Terracotta

,

Ashgate, Farnham, 2015 (forthcoming)

English Heritage,

Practical Building

Conservation: Mortars, Renders and

Plasters

, Ashgate, Farnham, 2011

M Jenkins,

Repairing Brickwork

,

Historic Scotland Inform Guide,

Edinburgh, 2007

G Lynch,

Brickwork: History, Technology and

Practice Volume 1

, Donhead, London, 1994

P Smith,

Rivington’s Building Construction

Volume 1

, Donhead, Shaftesbury, 2004

D Watt and P Swallow,

Surveying Historic

Buildings

, Donhead, Shaftesbury, 1996

GEOFF MAYBANK

DipBldgCons IHBC FRICS

established Maybank Buildings Conservation

(see page 46)

in 2011 to advise on and work

with historic buildings. Prior to that he was

with Manchester-based chartered surveyors

Ryder and Dutton for 32 years, 25 of them as

a partner.

Brick and pebbledash houses in Port Sunlight, Merseyside (1907) with splendid mock-Tudor chimneys: plant

growth on one of them indicates water ingress as a result of poorly maintained flaunching