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2

BCD SPECIAL REPORT ON

HISTORIC CHURCHES

22

ND ANNUAL EDITION

WOODEN CHURCHES

OF THE RUSSIAN NORTH

Richard Davies

C

HRISTIANITY WAS formally

established in what is now Russia

in AD 988. In Nestor’s

Primary

Chronicle

we are told that Prince

Vladimir of Kievan Rus was urged by

envoys from neighbouring countries to

adopt their faith. He was tempted by the

Muslim Bulgars’ promise of beautiful

women in paradise but ‘circumcision

and abstinence from pork and wine

were disagreeable to him. “Drinking,”

said he, “is the joy of the Russes. We

cannot exist without that pleasure”’.

Vladimir eventually decided to be

baptised into the Orthodox faith and,

as the chronicles tell, he ‘ordained that

wooden churches should be built and

established where pagan idols had

previously stood’.

Thousands of wooden churches were

built all over Russia although many were

later rebuilt in stone and brick as wooden

churches became unfashionable. In the

1830s a German traveller noted that ‘the

Russian country people take a particular

pride in stone churches in their villages…

nay its inhabitants would scarcely marry

those of villages with wooden churches’.

However, in northern Russia, where

wood was the most common building

material, wooden churches were still

being built up to the time of the Bolshevik

revolution. The new and surviving ancient

churches were often clad in white-painted

boards and their aspen-shingled onion

domes gave way to shiny metal ones

to give the impression that they were

spanking new stone churches.

The north of European Russia grew

prosperous over the centuries, exploited

by the traders of Novgorod for its

resources – fur and salt in particular. Its

rivers and lakes were important trading

routes and many settlements grew up

beside them. Each town and village had

its place of worship, traditionally not

one building but three: a winter church,

a summer church and a bell tower. Each

city had its cathedrals and churches.

Monasteries and hermitages were built

on the islands of the White Sea, on the

islands in the vast northern lakes and in

deep forest.

Kholmogory and later Archangel, on

the Northern Dvina River, were the most

important ports of medieval Russia and

trade with the English and the Dutch

Church of the Virgin Hoddigitra (1763), Kimzha, Mezen district, Archangel region (All photos by the author)